Asia Pacific – Camera & Carry On

Laid Back in Langkawi

Shannon — Mon, 10 Feb 2014 14:19:06 +0000

A duty free shopper's dream, Langkawi is a family-friendly archipelago in the Andaman Sea off mainland Malaysia's west coast. After several weeks in rural parts of the Philippines, and still trying to recover from China, we were happy to be somewhere that catered to visitors. Restaurants with English menus? Yes! A fan and an air conditioner in our room? Hallelujah! While not the most picturesque location in SE Asia, this destination has its pros and it's easy to see why travelers have Langkawi on the radar. Planning a vacay? A few of tips to make the most of your getaway to the main island...

Do

Rent a scooter (or a car) - Even if you're just planning on cruising between your favorite beach hangout and wherever you hang your bathing suit to dry, a set of wheels will give you some freedom. A scooter will run apx. 35 ringgit ($10) per day, plus gasoline. Bicycles aren't much cheaper, so unless you just plan on making a few quick runs along Pentai Cenang, you're better off with a motorized vehicle. Roads in Langkawi are well-paved and coasting along the coast with the wind in your face is a great way to beat the heat.
Find your favorite beach - With no shortage of cornmeal grade sandy spots (sorry to disappoint, but this isn't the sugar-fine breed) to dig your toes in, there are a number of desirable beaches around. We stuck to the main drag of Cenang and Tengah. Pentai Cenang is often a target for visitors, lined with loads of restaurants and t-shirt shops on the roadside and sunsets along the water. Just south is Pentai Tengah, a quieter stretch with calm waters and prime napping territory, but with close proximity to Cenang's restaurants and 'bustle'.
Discover The Zon - Judging by the steady flow of patrons, this isn't a well kept secret. Basically an airport duty free shop on steroids, The Zon carried the touristy essentials (snacks, beach towels, key chain souvenirs), plus the stuff you know you can live without but find yourself struggling to resist. We came here to load up on unnecessarily large quantities of chocolate-covered nuts, adult beverages, and sunscreen.
Get off the beaten path - You don't have to go far to lose sight of visitors and mingle with the locals. We found a cafe where English wasn't spoken and decided to try out a few of the fried up goodies on display (they seemed safe enough, and were actually really tasty sweet potatoes, bananas, and corn fritters).

Stay

We split our time between two hotels which we had pre-booked. Generally, when we're going somewhere new for at least a week, we like to break up the stay to see something new. We decided on the Tropical Resort Langkawi and the Tubotel. While the latter was by far one of our most unique hotel stays, the Tropical Resort came out on top in our book. The staff was extremely hospitable, the location was great (with a private trail to Pentai Tengah), and while not luxurious by any means, the room was clean and tidy. A simple breakfast is also included with most bookings. Bonus points for the generosity of the lovely lady that checked us in after our very late arrival around 1am. Our bags were lost* and we had little more than the clothes on our back. She graciously offered us toothbrushes and toothpaste... real lifesavers! *Thankfully, our bags were recovered and delivered the next day, and we were able to trade out our jeans in favor of swimwear.

Eat

Oasis Bar & Restaurant - Super laid back and casual, this waterfront hangout is great for grabbing lunch or catching the sunset. Highlight: the Malaysian version of halo halo!
Seashells - One of the best dinners I'd had in a while. Romantic setting, delicious food, frothy iced cappuccinos, and friendly service. My mouth is watering just thinking about that scrumptious curry beef. This is a must, and at around $30 USD for an appetizer, 2 entrees, and drinks, an absolute steal.
Unnamed Restaurant (directly next to Oasis Bar & Restaurant) - For the life of me, the name evades me... but this place is, as noted above, just next to Oasis. I opted for Indian fare, but there were plenty of Western and seafood choices available, too. The main draw? An unobscured view of the horizon.
Yasmin Restaurant - We absolutely stuffed ourselves because we simply couldn't stop eating all the deliciousness. Bright and crisp fattoush salad, creamy hummus, and to-die-for baba ganoush were to start. The donut shaped falafel were super crispy and flavorful, and the chicken shawarma was pretty darn good, too. Try not to be scared off by the guy on the sidewalk; he's a little aggressive with his approach on the sidewalk. Just smile, sit down and order. You'll be glad you did.

Oh, and do try the tropical fruits! Many of the varieties native to this part of the world are not available back home and I found myself in a veritable fruit frenzy. My favorites: the prickly rambutan and giant jackfruit!

Avoid

Durian - Please, PLEASE, for the sake of your taste buds and all things good in this world... Do Not Eat Durian. Do not let the "ice cream" version entice you. It's heinous.
Kuah Town - It's busy, noisy, and quite frankly there's not much to see. We ventured here by scooter one day to try and find some extra memory cards for our camera at the large mall (which was a bust anyway) and didn't feel the need to stick around.
Pink Drink - No, that's not an official title, but it is a beverage with a true bubble gum color. Milky, over sweetened, and with heavy notes of soap (seriously, it tastes like soap), it seems better suited for punishment than refreshing the palate.

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Swimming with the Biggest Fish in the Sea

Shannon — Mon, 27 Jan 2014 14:17:42 +0000

“Look there! Okay everyone… get ready!" the captain commanded over the rumble of the motor. We turned our attention west as the boat kicked into high gear. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of it. Water swished and swirled as the black crest emerged and maneuvered at the surface. “Let’s go! To the left side of the boat!" Scrambling for fins and snorkel masks, we hastily geared up and positioned ourselves port side among the other three passengers. After a morning of false alarms and unfulfilled anticipation, the pressure for this one was building. It was our second trip out in pursuit of the ever-evasive butanding, or whale shark. On the first search off Donsol’s shore just days prior, Michael had seen one at close range, from massive head to swaying tail. Aware our quest came at the very beginning of the season, we were lucky just to get a glimpse of a few active dorsal fins near the boat. Still, I was keen for my own encounter with the biggest fish in the sea. The last few seconds above water were a blur. Over my shoulder, shouts from the crew urged us to move quickly. “Now! Go!” I secured on my mask, took a deep breath, and plunged over the edge. The water was murky with plankton and I focused my eyes to see through the haze. Not more than a few yards away, little, white dots were fast approaching and growing in size. I knew those spots. Whale shark skin! Google image searches, YouTube videos, and the mandatory ‘before your interaction’ video at the tourism center prepared me for what I would see, but not how I would feel in the company of that which I sought. I was stunned but intrigued, and somehow resisted an urge to reach out and touch the shark to make sure it was real (I like to play by the rules… we’re told we can look, but not touch). I held my position, taking in the sight of the giant that passed beneath me. Then, realizing that very soon it would be gone, I kicked my feet as fast as they would propel me. Must. Not. Lose. Sight. Steadfast, I followed the shark for a few seconds before it took off into the abyss. “Farewell, fishy,” I thought. The whole thing couldn’t have lasted more than 60 seconds, but that moment overflowed with intensity. My senses were buzzing. I felt electric on an adrenaline kick, and yet so vulnerable, just feet from the massive creature, which I estimate to have been between 20 and 25 feet long. The big blue ocean is a thing of wonder, but for some, a source of fear as well. Perhaps it has something to do with all the unknown. To be there, to have that experience, to feel the adventure… Jumping into the deep with little visibility, and hoping to find a huge shark is not part of my general repertoire. But what’s life without a little risk and pumping up the heart rate? Back on the boat, my grin spread from ear to ear. I shook my head to indicate that yes, I had seen the butanding. The captain nodded back in approval. Michael squeezed my hand and we spent the next 45 minutes on the boat enjoying the warmth of the sun and salty breeze. There were no other sightings in our remaining time on the water that morning, but I was okay with that. My experience in Donsol was complete; I’d be going home with a spectacular memory of the day I swam with a whale shark. Some things to know about searching for whale sharks in Donsol…

The excursion is about 3 hours long, 85% of which is primarily comprised of what I like to call hurry up and wait, because that’s just what you do. Sadly, many times a whale shark is spotted, it will dive too deep before you have a chance to get to to it (hence, all the aforementioned false alarms). But what can you do? Just cross your fingers and hope you see one!
There are a few guys on the boat that make up the crew, along with a captain (or BIO = buntanding interaction officer). The boat itself is quite simple, but serves its purpose well. There is covered area just large enough room for the max 6 passengers, and a nice open spot in the front where everyone gathers before the scramble to jump in.
There is no equipment, per se, for ‘spotting’ whale sharks; at least not in our experience. The crew look toward the horizon in all directions searching for signs of activity. I guess when you live here and have been doing this for a while, your sight is as good a tool as any.
Guarantees are not made that you will see a whale shark. It’s helpful to go in the height of the season, which has varied slightly over the last few years with warming trends, but tends to be toward the beginning of the year. Even the locals will tell you that it’s never a sure thing, and to see one is very lucky!
Seeing a whale shark first hand is truly amazing. Highly recommended!!!

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